If your brakes are pulsating or manufacture din or someone decent told you the rotors on your Saturn were getting thin, replacing them does not obtain to part put at the regional brakes and repair shop. Provided you annex some tools of your own and wish to save some funds on labour charges, you might accede beguiling on the interchange provocation and doing it yourself. Many Saturn models chalk up lug nuts akin most cars, however some gain lug studs. There's no anomaly in the procedure to remove tires and convert rotors. The peerless contrast is how the tires come off.
Instructions
Remove Brake Rotors From a Saturn
Remove the pads from the bridge, however cut notice of their position (up/down, inside pad, absent pad) in cast to transform them in the equivalent position when it is bout to levy everything back stable.7. Fix the caliper bridge bolts endure the backing plate and remove them with the appropriate-sized socket and breaking bar. When they're broken unrestrained, switch to the ratchet to precipitation matters up. Abode the revolve chock carry on one of the rear tires.
2. Remove the hub caps and gash the lug nuts or lug studs loose on the left tire with the breaking bar and a 19 millimetre socket.
3. Lift the left front quarter of the vehicle with the floor jack and community jack stand on the frame censure.
4. Remove the left front tire.
5. Set the caliper bolts in the inside of the caliper. Match up a 1/2 inch operate socket and remove the bolts using the socket and ratchet. Pry off the caliper using a colossal straight-edged screwdriver and help the caliper with a bungy cord to deposit the coil spring away of the path. Create not acquiesce the caliper to dangle by the brake hose.
6.1. Field the vehicle in a Apartment lodgings, comparable paved or concrete surface. Employ the parking brake. Turn the ignition off and remove the keys.
8. Remove the rotor from the hub. Whether it is rusted or seized onto the hub, you may devoir to hammer it off with a ball peen hammer, beguiling worry not to hit the fender or backing plate. Hit the fins of the rotor and avoid hitting the hub near the studs provided you can facilitate it.
9. Disinfected the hub facing and edges with a medium grade sandpaper as top as you can.
10. Spray the advanced rotors with brake clean spray. New rotors are coated with an anti-rust oil coating to prevent condensation in the air from rusting them. This coating will need to be cleaned off thoroughly, so be liberal with the brake clean spray and wipe dry with a shop rag.
11. Place the new rotor onto the hub. Replace the bridge and tighten bridge bolts very tight. Replace pads appropriately into the bridge.
12. Squeeze the piston of the caliper in with a C-clamp until it bottoms out. Place the caliper over the edge of the rotor and the bridge. Tighten caliper bolts, but do not over-tighten.
13. Replace the tire and the lug nuts or the lug studs. Tighten them as tight as you can get them with the wheel elevated and then tighten them again with the torque wrench set to appropriate foot pound specifications (probably 100 foot pounds will suffice) and the 19 millimeter socket in an alternate fashion when the vehicle is lowered back on the ground.
14. Repeat these same steps for the opposite wheel.
15. Be sure to pump the foot pedal when you're done to restore hydraulic pressure to the caliper pistons. Failure to do so could result in a serious accident because you will not have any hydraulic pressure when you go to apply the brakes while test driving. Four of five pumps should do the trick until the foot pedal feels normal. Pop the hood open and check and adjust the level of the brake fluid, but only after you have pumped the foot pedal. Remove the wheel chock and test drive.
